Make your own dry toilet Part 3 The Seats continued

Welcome to the continuation of this project on making the dry toilet seats. If you have just landed on this page, then the first part can be found here.

For the seat itself I had selected some wood planking 140mm x 30mm (5½” x 1¼”) that I had intercepted before being thrown into a skip. Already planed smooth this was ideal. On  the very first seat I made (still in use) I used 20mm (¾”) pallet wood and this was okay except it did take some effort to plane it to an acceptable smooth and splinter-free finish.

The planks were sawn to length and laid onto the top of the frame. Previously I had marked the centre of the frame with a pencil line and I laid the seat planks for both sides to this line. The seat supports remained clamped to the side frames and hence once in place a line could be drawn on the underside of the seat indicating the supports positions (image at start of article).







Each plank in turn could then be removed, turned over and drilled.

 

Prior to screwing I'd countersunk the screw holes on the top face of the seat planks and then ran a bead of PVA wood glue on the upper faces of the supports. I also ensured that the front edge of the seat projected about 20mm (¾”) over the front edge of the frame.

The shape for the hole in the seat I obtained simply by tracing the outline from an existing toilet seat onto a piece of cardboard. Once cut out, this became the template for the hole and could be traced around in the correct position on the seat planking.

When the glue bonding the seat planks to the supports had dried, the holes could be cut using a jigsaw. The buckets were put in place and the alignment was checked. As an additional support for the seat planks I glued and nailed laths of wood on the underside of the seat that were narrow enough not to impinge on the bucket rim.





The upper edge of the hole was rounded, for user comfort and although it could be done with a rasp and sandpaper, I found it much quicker using a router fitted with a roundover bit.

 

To make the lid I cut 20mm (¾”) pallet planks to length and laid them on top of the seat, the plank at the back flush with the rear edge of the seat. The lid pivoted on the same dowels as the seat thus four ‘L’-shaped support arms were cut.



The shorter arm of the ‘L’ was long enough so as to be able to be drilled for the dowel to pass through. The long arm was laid onto the lid planks and the pivot hole in each one was drilled.

To make this operation easier, each arm was held against the inside face of one of the outermost seat supports and the hole was drilled using the previously-drilled holes in the frame and support as the guide. During drilling I used a piece of wood to wedge the arm firmly in place.

NOTE: Because I had drilled and checked the hole alignment in the support frames I knew that the pivot holes were in the same position thus, all of the holes in these arms were drilled through the same guide holes.

Prior to fitting the lid, I nailed planking to the front face of the seat frame and chamfered and smoothed the top edge with a rasp and sandpaper.





With the lid planks in position,  each pair of arms were fitted onto their respective dowel and lowered into place. The arms were drilled and screwed to the lid planks.

 Now all that was needed was to put the seat in place in the toilet cabin and this is where the design for the cabin works really well.

As the wall planks are not fixed in place, they can be slid out from their retaining bars until there is enough of a gap for the seat to pass through. This means that the seat can be fitted into a cabin not much wider than itself (about 50mm (2”)).

With the buckets in place and sawdust in a separate container, the system is up and running!

.. and now if you'd like to, sit back and watch the film of the construction of the seats:

All the best and thanks for dropping by. Please feel free to share this article, comment and/or ask for further information.

Until next time!

Cheers, Andy
© Andy Colley 2015

RELATED POSTS

Setting up a Dry Toilet System - Facts and Figures 

What is interesting about this bill is that the actual water used has gone from 45 cubic metres to 13 cubic metres, so the water consumed now costs us over two thirds less than before... read more

Composting Urine Using a Straw Bale. Dry toilets for all climates.

A great way to process dry toilet liquid for around 6 Euros or 5 Dollars worth of materials. .. read more

Humanure - Two Years of Living with our Dry Toilet

Humanure is like death and taxes it's something we all know about but as the elephant in the room, are most loath to mention it...read more

RETURN TO GREEN LEVER CONTENTS PAGE FOR MORE ARTICLES

Make your own dry toilet Part 3 - The seats

There’s an old joke about thieves breaking into a local constabulary and stealing all their toilets. The next day it’s reported that:

“The police have nothing to go on.”

I realise how remiss I’ve been in not furnishing the details of the third, final and essential part of the dry toilet system and will correct this forthwith.

As this is quite a lengthy article, I have divided it into two. (If you are just coming to the dry toilet project for the first time, then part one of our whole set up, which includes details of the design and fabrication of the compost bin and cabin, can be found here.)

 Work in progress - Bob the Sebright aka the Guv'nor

Introduction

The toilet seat is for the ‘two bucket’ system. One side is for collecting liquid and the other is for solids. Needless to say one cannot avoid some liquid in the latter bucket but it is minimal and will be absorbed by the sawdust that is added after every visit. The idea is that the solids bucket is dry enough to permit the aerobic bacteria to get to work . The liquid waste can be disposed of separately either diluted with rainwater and used directly on the garden or put into the urine composter (see related post below). The other bonus for us is that when we’re working in the garden it’s really handy having a toilet where you don’t have to worry about taking off your wellies or muddy work boots to have a pee!

Design

The receptacles for the waste are two identical size buckets. It is the size of these buckets which determine the distance of their support shelf. from the underside of the seat. The hinged seats are made of wood and have a hinged cover over the top. It would be possible to purchase a couple of toilet seats and attach them to the base, but my intention was to make everything from re-purposed wood (except the buckets). 

The important dimension was  the seat height and this I measured from that of a conventional toilet.

Construction

The seat carcass was made of 3 rectangular frames oriented front to rear connected by top and bottom rails. The front elevation was clad in planking. The upper face of the frames was the face against which  the seat rested. I first selected the wood I was to use for the seat.. The thickness of this wood had to be included in the dimension for the overall seat height.

There were six legs in all and they were cut from the stringers of a two-way entry pallet. They usually have a cross-section of around 29mm x 80mm (1¼” x 3¼”).

  


Each pair of legs were joined with pallet planks (leg braces) 18mm x 80mm (¾” x 3¼”) at the top of the leg and at the bottom. The position of the lower leg brace had to be determined such that its upper edge would carry the horizontal planks upon which the buckets rested. So in my case, the distance from the top of the leg to the upper face of the lower leg brace was determined to be: the bucket height (260mm) plus the horizontal bucket support plank thickness (18mm) i.e. 278mm (11”).

The top edges of the upper leg braces of the frames were flush with the top of the leg. The centre leg frame had the leg braces on both faces of the legs so as to furnish support for each seat. Each frame was assembled with wood glue and screws, It was essential that the screws at the upper rear corners were not going to foul the location for the hole for the hinge dowel for the seat.

The hinges for the seat and lid were simply pivots made from wooden dowel passing through drilled holes in the upper leg braces into holes in the seat and lid supports. In the first incarnation of the seat, I made the base and then drilled the hinge holes in the frame using the fully assembled seat and hinge as the guide. I found it was very difficult to get the electric hand drill in position to drill the centre hinge hole due to the length restriction. So subsequent constructions had the hinge holes drilled in the seat and lid supports before they were assembled. This obviously meant that I had already selected the timber for the seat supports as it was in these that the other hinge holes were drilled.

The position for the dowel hole was marked on the side frame and the hole was drilled To lessen the chance of the drill wandering, I drilled a pilot hole and then ’opened up’ this hole with drill bits of increasing diameter.

To check the accuracy of the hole position, I stood the three side frames together on a flat surface with the legs aligned and pushed a piece of wooden dowel through the drilled holes.

The frame for the base was then assembled. Front and rear rails cut from pallet planks were screwed to the outward-facing elevation of the front legs of the side frames, at the top and the bottom and the inside edge of the  rear legs of the side frames, checking that the frame remained square.

The seat supports were of the ‘stringer’ timber from a pallet cut to 28mm (11/8”) width and cut to length. For drilling the pivot hole in these, the supports were clamped against the side frame  in the correct position and the hole in the side frame became the guide for the drill bit.

In the second and final part of this project I'll describe the making of the seat top and lid and fitting the finished project into the cabin. There will also be a film of the whole process.

All the best and thanks for dropping by. Please feel free to share this article, comment and/or ask for further information.

The continuation of this project can be found here

Until next time!

Cheers, Andy
© Andy Colley 2015

RETURN TO GREEN LEVER CONTENTS PAGE FOR MORE ARTICLES

DIY dry toilet system for 8 Euros or $11 - Part 2 The Cabin

It's been about two and a half years since we set up our dry toilet system in the garden and it was only the other day when I was looking through the Green Lever archive that I realised we had not written a post about the cabin and the seats. These will be long posts because there is a lot to share, so without further delay here is the first, the design, construction and assembly of the cabin (pictured below).

Introduction

We've long been talking about building our own Eco-house. Much of the work we've done in restoring the 300 year old Longère in which we now live, has been experimental in trying out more environmentally-friendly techniques and using ecological materials. Our Eco-house is to be completely off-the-grid including being autonomous with our own water supply. This being the case, reducing water consumption is essential and the biggest consumer of our water is the flush toilet. We also decided to have an extra liquids only toilet in the house and so, except for offering the choice to visitors, our flush toilet became totally redundant. In Setting up a dry toilet, which we wrote back in July 2012, we posted our water bills, showing how our  consumption and thus costs, dropped by two thirds once we stopped flushing. The extra added bonus, apart from feeling a lot less wasteful, is that we can now grow beautiful flowers in what was once some very poor soil!

Design criteria for the whole system

We decided that the toilet would be located in the garden because it would be easier to empty the contents into the composting bin and also, as we spend most of our time in the garden or workshops, muddy boots would not be a problem. Thus, we needed a cabin to house the toilet, a seat and a composting bin. I also wanted a design that could be made in and transported from the workshop. Wherever the intended siting, it is always better to have something which can be fabricated inside in comfort, rather than outside in the rain. It also makes for a practical design if you want to use this system for somewhere such as; your allotment, social garden, a field or even set up a business making them for others.

The seat 
For ease of composting we decided to separate liquid and solid waste at source, hence a dual seat arrangement seemed to fit the bill. Beneath each seat would be bucket. The solid waste would be covered with sawdust after each visit and emptied into the composting bin when full. The contents of the liquid bucket would be diluted with rain water to be distributed around plants in the garden.

N.B. this latter has recently been updated in order to accommodate people who live in extreme climates and the post which covers this update can be found here: Composting urine using a straw bale
 

 
The cabin

Tall enough to stand up in, the cabin had to be wide enough to accommodate the dual seat, with enough 'leg-room' for comfort. It needed to offer privacy and protection from the elements and had to be easily transportable from the workshop to its site in the garden.

The composting bin 

For this we decided to use the same successful design that I came up with some time ago for garden/vegetable waste i.e. horizontal sliding wall planks that allow for ease of access and very easy to transport for assembly on site. For its design and construction see my post: Untreated Pallet Wood Compost Bin

Fabrication of the Cabin

I decided the cabin would comprise a modified pallet base that would be placed on a stone chipping foundation. Corner posts would be fitted to which the framing for the two side walls and rear wall would be secured. The walls for these would be vertical pallet planks slid between the frame wood (very much like the compost bin). On the front elevation would be a pre-assembled panel and a door. Cross-bracing connecting the diagonally opposite corner posts at the top would stiffen the structure and the whole would be covered with a pitched roof .

On one of my regular pallet-collection runs I obtained a non-standard sized pallet 100cm x 120cm this was perfect for the cabin base, the 100cm width was enough to fit the double seat. The first step was to fill in the gaps between the existing pallet planks with planks of the same thickness so as to make an even floor.

Turning the pallet over I then attached planking around the edge of the pallet such that about 2cm of wood protruded all the way around the pallet perimeter. 

Each corner post was made by screwing together two 210cm long pallet planks so they formed an 'L'-shape which would fit against the two outward-facing sides of the pallet's corner blocks. These posts rested on the 2cm protruding wood and were screwed to the pallet blocks. Thus all of the vertical weight of the posts, additional wall framing and roof structure, was supported by the protruding wood attached to the underside of the pallet. The screws merely stopped them from moving around. 

I cut planking and fitted it around the pallet base so as to prevent any openings that a small hen or pigeon would find 'interesting' once the cabin was erected in the garden. This planking furnished the edge upon which the wall planks would rest. 

Planks were cut to length and screwed to the outside faces so as to connect horizontally the corner posts. Six planks were required for each side wall and the rear wall, They would form the retaining rails when the wall planks were slid into place.

The vertical position of the retaining rails were; near to the 'floor', at the top of the corner posts and an intermediate rail at a height such that a standard 120cm pallet plank would be about half way up the width of the middle plank when it (the 120cm plank) was standing on the edge of the 'hen/pigeon preventer' plank. The next three retaining rails were screwed to the inner faces of the corner posts at the same vertical heights.

In addition, diagonal braces were screwed to the inside of the corner posts to stiffen the structure further. A horizontal brace in the form of an 'X' was screwed to the top of the corner posts. This skeleton structure became very rigid with the addition of the 'X' brace.

For the front elevation I made a narrow panel the full height of the cabin from three 190cm long pallet planks. The door was made to fit the space left between this panel and the corner post.

The roof on the first design of cabin was a simple rectangular frame, larger than the footprint of the cabin, to which were nailed broad laths. A heavy-duty tarpaulin was secured to the outside of the frame.

The corner posts on one side elevation were reduced in height by about 25mm so that the roof had a pitch when it was put into place,

Subsequent cabins have had a double-pitched roof requiring the construction of two triangular panels which fit onto the top of the front and rear elevation. Two rectangular panels again with laths nailed to them are attached to the sloping faces and again a heavy duty tarpaulin fitted.

Assembly of the cabin.

Once erected in the workshop and everything checked for squareness the cabin was dismantled for moving into the garden. The frames for the sidewalls were left attached to the corner posts, the position of each plank for the rear wall frame was marked with its' location prior to unscrewing from the corner posts. Hence, there were two frames for the side walls each frame had two corner posts.

The whole cabin could then be moved outside to the prepared foundation of small stone chippings tamped down so as to feel firm underfoot. Obviously, I checked this to be not only flat but also level. 

Portable toilet anyone? Loading up at a Garden Open Day in Normandie

As long as the position for each component is clearly marked, assembly is a breeze, I know this as we have shown this homemade system at several exhibitions in the Region. On one memorable occasion, we displayed the whole system at two exhibitions in two towns in two days!

So now, if you'd like to, sit back and watch the film.



Thanks for dropping by and please feel free to share this article, comment, ask questions and if you'd like to be assured of getting the next post, then sign up to follow this blog.

All the best, Andy

© Andy Colley 2014

RETURN TO GREEN LEVER CONTENTS PAGE FOR MORE ARTICLES 

 

How to compost urine using a straw bale. Dry toilets for all climates.

The Piddleposter

 

A great way to process dry toilet liquid for around 6 euros or 5 dollars worth of materials. 

Whether you're a homesteader/smallholder looking to cut your water consumption or someone who just wants not to have to take off muddy boots when needing to use the bathroom.....

 
...even though the cows may have something to say about you pinching their bedding.

Introduction

 

A few months ago I received a question regarding the practicality of using a dry toilet in a really cold climate.

My thoughts on this are as follows:

The solid waste from our two-bucket dry toilet system would still go into the composter, I would advise the use of larger amounts of straw to act as an insulator as well as furnishing the carbon necessary for the bacteria to work. Even if the temperatures are very low, as soon as Spring temperatures arrive, the composting process would speed up and I would expect after the passage of two years for the compost bin contents to be completely transformed. I would have said that if one already has a climate able to compost vegetable matter/ garden waste then there will be no problem with that of the toilet contents. 
 

 

The liquid waste would probably be harder to dispose. Ordinarily, our urine is diluted with grey water from the house and then poured around the garden. When the temperatures are below zero I do see a problem with the frozen ground being unable to absorb this. Fortunately for us the cold spells do not last too long and normally the soil in the more protected areas of the garden are still porous.

I realise that for people living with longer, colder Winters the liquid waste would become a burden. So, my idea is to make a composter specifically for handling “neat” urine and capable of producing a valuable compost at the end of its processing.

The straw bale composter

Human urine is 95% water the rest is a rich mixture of chemicals the largest proportion being nitrogen. To make good garden compost you need a Carbon to Nitrogen ratio of about 30:1 and so the almost total carbon content of straw makes it an ideal companion in the compost bin.

This is an idea becoming more commonly seen at outside public events as no drainage for the liquid is required. The toilet can comprise of an enclosure with a seat if needed and an appropriately placed straw bale to receive the liquid direct from source.

French designers Faltazi have come up with an easily attached folded polypropylene or stainless steel 'funnel' so as to produce an ecological pissoire. The funnels are pushed into the sides of a straw bale at the appropriate height for men. http://uritonnoir.faltazi.com/en/

My experiment was to make a suitable container for a straw bale and empty the liquid waste from its receptacle onto it every day and see what happens to the urine and the straw.

The Design.

Obviously the compost bin has to fit around a straw bale. The standard bales in Europe are now huge cylinders and are designed to be mechanically lifted and dispersed throughout the farmer's barns. 

The organic farm where we buy our grain for our birds has these same sized home-grown organic straw bales and he uses one each morning and night for the bedding of his 50 head Normandy herd. 

Even so he has other livestock areas where he only uses part-bales. If we give the farmer 24 hours notice he can take a part-bale and re-roll it to a more manageable size. This is so it will fit into the rear of our estate car/station wagon, even then it is still quite a push to manhandle it into place. For 5 euros or 6 dollars we got this bale with enough left over in the deal to keep the Hen Houses supplied for several months. So for a small initial sum you can end up with some great and truly organic compost! You will probably have an organic farmers' register for your area, so check out the dairy or other livestock farms and see what they have on offer. Mixed arable farms will also have straw and again I would always go for a certified organic farm, where you can be assured of them not using chemical sprays and/or synthetic fertilisers.

These bales when laid on their sides in fields will shed rainwater for some considerable time, a desirable feature for the farmer but not for the urine composter hence, the bale has to stand on its end to expose the more porous part of the bale uppermost when in the composter.

 










The link for the design and construction of the compost bin on the left can be found here:
Pallet wood compost bin 


If you've seen my other compost bin design you will know of my sliding wall plank system that I developed to ensure easy access for emptying and the facility to exchange rotten planks with new ones. For the new bin I opted for only the front elevation to be of the sliding plank format, the other three walls were to be pre-made in the workshop. This would still mean that the wall panels would be easy enough to carry into the garden for assembly on site.

The cylindrical straw bale has a height of 120cm. Perfect for my needs as the standard pallet plank is exactly this length.

A waterproof lid fits on top of the container to ensure weather protection.

Fabrication

The three pre-constructed walls were made by nailing pallet planks to top and bottom horizontal rails. The wooden rails of each wall were longer than the wall width. This protruding portion fitted over or under the other walls' rail, a clearance hole was drilled through the two rails and a threaded bar was inserted. Nuts on the threaded bar were tightened once the walls were in position. 
 

On the front elevation of each side wall was a vertical post running from top to bottom to which the spacer rails were screwed and onto these were screwed the retaining rails. The resultant gap between the post and the retaining rail had to be enough to allow the wall planks to pass.

One important point is that the upper rails of the side walls projected beyond the rear wall of the composter, this to provide the pivot point for the lid.

Here is the step-by-step film showing the construction:

All the best and thanks for dropping by. Feel free to comment ask for information and/or share this article.

Cheers, Andy

© Andy Colley 2014

RETURN TO GREEN LEVER CONTENTS PAGE FOR MORE ARTICLES 

Humanure - Two years of living with a dry toilet

For over two years now we have been using our home-made dry toilet and have just been able to start using the compost from our first bin which has been lying idle for over eighteen months. Idle perhaps isn't the correct word for in that time a whole host of activities have been occurring within it.

   Hands on Experience - Paying dividends after eighteen months.

Humanure is like death and taxes it's something we all know about but as the elephant in the room, are most loath to mention it. It is this inability to cope with our own waste which has led us down the path of least resistance, removing  it as far away from our dwellings as possible and leading many countries literally to the brink of overflowing. What we need to do is face up to the problem as individuals and stop flushing this precious resource along with equally valuable water down the pan. We need to stop being afraid.

Changing language - changing attitudes

The word humanure is an interesting one in that it seeks to redefine what was once perceived as waste and place it in the context of a resource. Along with chicken, horse, pigeon and cow manure, etc., humanure becomes no longer a waste material which needs to be disposed of but a useful product to be composted and recycled for reuse. 

So how does it work. Firstly, in order to run a dry toilet system efficiently and ensure a quality breakdown to a rich compost without pathogens, one needs two basic 'cover' materials to provide carbon, with which to balance the nitrogen in the humanure. These also have a role in absorbing moisture and preventing the escape of odours from both the dry toilet recipient and compost bin. The most popular cover for the former is sawdust and the latter straw. In our case we recycle the certified organic hay and triticale straw used in nest boxes, hen house floors and our hen-powered propagator. The further important function of the cover material once in the compost bin is to provide the tiny interstitial air spaces for the necessary aerobic thermophilic microbial reaction to take place.

Everything pivots around language and nomenclature, once the concept of humanure can be explained 'scientifically' rather than in the old 'muck and mystery' ways of the organic and ecological movements of the early 1920, many more people begin to feel comfortable with it. It is also important to remember that these systems are as removed from the old chemical toilet outhouses as they are from the modern flushing wc.

  

The aerobic decomposition of the humanure, or thermophilic composting includes a hot stage of 45 degrees C or hotter. There is no exact timing for this stage because it is dependent on a number of variable factors. These include, the mass and composition of the mix, ones geographical location, the ambient temperatures, changing seasons and humidity levels both inside and out. One of our reasons for including the lid on our bin is to prevent the excessive humidity caused by the ingress of Normandie rain! 

Human Pathogens: -  viruses, protozoa, bacteria and intestinal worms

There has been a great body of research carried out on the efficiency of the thermophilic environment in eradicating the above, with the conclusion that when composting has been carried out efficiently there are no pathogens detectable even in cases where the initial level has been a heavy one. It is after this initial hot stage that the next part of the process, the cooling stage begins, after which comes the work of nonthermophilic microorganisms and our old friends the compost worms, wood lice and fungi. Then follows a stage known as 'curing', which allows time for all the work to be completed.  This last stage leaves you with the dry friable mix and a valuable resource for your garden.
For a comprehensive essay on the above:
http://www.agrowingculture.org/2011/08/humanure-part-iii-thermophillic-bacteria-composting-stages-the-sanitization-of-compost-joe-jenkins/
and a well presented factual short article:
http://compost.css.cornell.edu/microorg.html

Facts and Figures: Our own system

 
Water Consumption: prior to installation 80m³ per annum.
Water Consumption: post installation  36m³ per annum.
Volume of  sewage:  which would have been sent for re-treatment in a year: 44m³ (over 99% of this would have been potable water!)
Volume of dry waste: actually produced per annum 0.24m³

From the above, the benefits of installing a dry toilet are great both to the pocket and to the environment. Furthermore, the astounding difference is in the amount of 'waste' or rather resource engendered by the process. This is particularly important to highlight because many people believe erroneously that only country people with land can use this sort of set up. Interestingly Sue and I gave several demonstrations over this Summer of all things repurposed, including dry toilets and I had a great conversation with guy from central Paris who has exactly the same set up as ours. His only problem is sourcing the sawdust! It is worth pointing out too that we also have a liquids only toilet within the bathroom, which we can remove when visitors come to stay and give them the choice which toilet to use.

Our system was designed and made for and from repurposed pallet wood and a minimum of fixings and comes out at a cost of under 10 $/Euros/£. The three films showing how to make the compost bin, cabin and toilets are all on this blog as well as on my Youtube site*. There are obviously a multitude of designs both to make and purchase and many of which are specifically tailored for an urban environment. 

*http://www.youtube.com/user/Organikmechanic 

Conclusions

 

The Industrial Revolution removed vast numbers of ordinary people physically from the land. However, it did more to them mentally, holding them captive in a system, where they no longer had dominion over the management of their own lives. Further generations would be taught to look down upon the provision of food and composting 'waste' until World Wars obliged governments to force them back to it. The rallying cry of the post war period was about spending,  consuming and throwing away and the scale of its repercussions are only just beginning to be openly realised on our personal health, happiness and our one and only Planet. In the present economic climate, more and more are moving back to the land by choice and finding joy in the rediscovery of old skills and autonomy. Dry toilets are just a leitmotif for this paradigm shift. It is up to personal choice where you put the resultant compost. It is also an individual choice as to what you include in your mix. We are purists and have a dedicated bin just for the contents of the dry toilet. When we raise a glass of kir containing home-made crème de cassis this New year we will be drinking to the success of another year of thermophilic microbial reaction or rather the toast will be: "To Muck and Mystery!"

Now sit back, if you will and watch our dry toilet 'reveal' and find the answer to the questions that decades of flushing can no longer keep from you. The film still below is of our current working bin just to show the 'cover' materials and the worm activity - nothing to worry about!

 

Thanks for dropping by and if you have enjoyed this post please share and feel free to comment and ask questions.

Thanks for dropping by and please feel free to share this article, comment, ask questions and if you'd like to be assured of getting the next post, then sign up to follow this blog.

All the best, Andy

© Andy Colley 2014

RETURN TO GREEN LEVER CONTENTS PAGE FOR MORE ARTICLES